Amanda from Bursa
Tell us about yourself. What made you come to Turkey?
I had been working for twenty years in the US as a systems engineer, spending as many holidays as possible in Turkey. A couple of years ago, I realized that I no longer loved my work or found it rewarding. At the same time, two friends about my age died suddenly. I realized that I might, in fact, work at an uninspiring job until the standard retirement age, or I might drop dead at my desk in the meantime. Neither of those prospects appealed to me. Life is capricious, and I decided to follow its example. What I really wanted to do was live in another culture and write. I sold my house and my car, left my job, subscribed to "Writers' Marketplace", packed a backpack and a suitcase, said goodbye to my incredulous friends, and boarded a flight to Istanbul.
How did you decide to settle in Bursa?
Accidentally, really. A Turkish acquaintance in America had suggested to me
that Tirilye, a village on the Sea of Marmara, might be just the place for me.
As she described it, it sounded lovely. I'd traveled around much of Turkey,
and I like the eastern Mediterranean very much -- Anamur still takes my breath
away -- but I thought I might feel a bit too isolated living down there. I went
to check out Tirilye. It didn't take long. It is indeed a beautiful village,
but very small. It wasn't where I wanted to be. I decided to go into Bursa for
a few days to think things over. I wasn't going to live in Bursa, of course
-- none of my guide books had particularly flattering things to say about it.
One of them pointed to the city's automotive manufacturing industry and suggested
that Green Bursa would more aptly be called Grey Bursa. Nonsense! The first
thing I noticed about Bursa is the number of enormous, ancient trees shading
the many pedestrian-only streets and parks. Bursa was first capital of the Ottoman
empire, and the city is packed with history. It has great, authentic character
and dignity. Bursa doesn't put on airs for tourists.
What do you do in your daily life?
I write. I read with greater appreciation than ever, given the cost of obtaining
Engish-language books. I knit -- Bursa is a textile center, and finally the
economics of knitting work in my favor. Unlike the US, I can knit a sweater
here for less than I could buy one. I explore.
Family?
None. It horrifies my Turkish neighbors and friends, of course.
Has living in Turkey influenced your approach to life?
Absolutely! America is, by and large, a fretful, high-strung country. It's very
easy to get swept up in that, even if your nature is more placid. The children
playing outside my flat run with sharp objects, don't have bicycle helmets,
and ride in cars without child seats or safety belts. Bursa's sidewalks often
have a set of steps where you least expect them. Dolmuş drivers whip
through traffic while making change and talking on their cell phones. These
things would have American parents and tort attorneys in a frenzy. I suppose
one could say that I have more things to worry about here in Turkey, but without
all the constant reminders to worry about them, I don't.
Turkish language?
Yavaş, yavaş. Slowly, slowly. My biggest barrier is stage fright. When
I start to speak, I can sense my hard-won vocabulary and grammar exiting my
head. I admire the Turkish language tremendously -- it is the most logical and
regular language I've ever studied. I will certainly keep striving, especially
since I've met very few people in the Bursa area who speak English. My flawed
Turkish is the only means of communication in town. Most Turks are genuinely
patient, helpful and good-humored as I muddle along. I was speaking with a Turkish
Cypriot once, trying to explain what I did for a living in the US. Reaching
into space for the Turkish word for "engineer", I grabbed "enginar",
telling the man that I'd worked for twenty years as an artichoke.
Let's talk about Bursa, tell us your discoveries.
I'm still discovering, but my favorite things include stopping for coffee in
the 15th-century Koza Han, or silk market; going to one of Bursa's many hamams
every couple of weeks (I go to a normal hamam. I haven't tried the thermal mineral
baths yet); strolling around Muradiye, the Sultan Murat's vast tomb complex
-- the tilework in some of the tombs rivals that in Topkapı Palace; wandering
aimlessly through the maze of covered markets, hans and bedestens; going
to the Karagöz shadow puppet theatre...
Have you traveled in Turkey?
Yes. I've spent quite a bit of time in the eastern Mediterranean between Adana
and Anamur. I walked and mountain-biked through Cappadocia for two weeks.
Since I've been living here, I've made some short trips. I went to Antalya this
summer to see La Boheme at the Aspendos amphitheatre, which was extraordinary.
I've explored Kütahya, the Marmara coast, and of course, Istanbul. I spent August
of this year making a big, sweeping loop around easternmost Turkey. That was
an intense trip, very difficult to summarize -- eastern Turkey defies description
in many ways. I stopped for a short time at Sinop on my way back west, and that
left me wanting to explore the Black Sea region further.
What is your preferred characteristic trait of Turks?
I'll cite the same characteristics that nearly everyone else does -- the genuine
kindness and generosity of the Turks. My neighbors are endlessly dropping by
my flat with food, strangers are quick to smile and strike up a conversation
in the market. I wish I could be more original, but this quality is so striking,
especially when one comes from a place where people are much cooler and more
reserved.
What was the annoying one?
As an animal-lover, I struggle with many Turks' fear and loathing of dogs. I
understand our cultural differences, but I still go a bit mad when I see a flying
rock and hear yelping.
Turkish Cuisine?
Turkey is a culinary paradise. I lived in the cold, snowy, northeastern part
of the US -- "fresh" produce came from California, Florida or Chile
for most of the year. I delight in walking around the pazars to shop. It's especially
easy to be a healthy, happy vegetarian here. Honestly, my only wish is that
Turkey could grow coffee. The imported stuff is wickedly expensive!
Any suggestion to people planning to visit Bursa?
First, if you are traveling by bus, be aware that the otogar is over
10km away from the city center. Terminal buses run back and forth frequently.
I was horrified to hear from a travel writer that she'd hated Bursa -- she'd
only wandered around the otogar and dismissed it as a dismal city. She didn't
realize that she'd been nowhere near central Bursa. After that, it's only a
matter of your preferences. Bursa is rich with the earliest Ottoman history.
Mt. Uludağ is here, if you like to ski or trek. You can wander the markets for
days, until you can't shop a minute more. Soak in thermal baths, or one of several
normal hamams. Bring comfortable walking shoes and just explore!
Also See:
Latest comments about this article
By
Paroshep 11.3.2009
An excellent report, Amanda, thank you.
As an expat in Greece I emphasize that attitude is all important to satisfaction with a foreign environment. You certainly have the right attitude.
Cheers,
By
cassie 16.1.2009
oh sorry my email:cass70@gmail.com
By
cassie 16.1.2009
Hi Amanda
love your article, help i have just arrived in Bursa and could do with some good advice ect... safe and good hamaman.
look forward to hearing from you cassx
By
mordikus 11.10.2007
I LOVE AMANDA SHE´S SO SWEET...........
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