Dinner at Ortaköy
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Bülent Yüksel
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I had heard about Ortaköy many times. Heard that it was a beautiful area, heard that there were great restaurants, etc, etc. And I had passed over it many times when crossing the Bosphorus Bridge.
Finally, I went there to see what the talk was about. I wasn't disappointed. Istanbul, with its miles and miles of Bosphorus shoreline, certainly has plenty of beautiful places to stroll, or sit and drink tea, and take in the view. Bebek, Fenerbahçe, Moda, the list is long. But Ortaköy is up there at the top of the list, and if you haven't been there yet, you need to go.
I stopped for dinner at Sedir, a small restaurant next to the mosque. Sedir has outdoor seating for summer nights, and a cozy atmosphere inside, including a fireplace, for chilly winter nights. The indoor seating is very comfortable, with nicely padded benches and chairs. The hardwood floor, intimate candlelit dinner tables, and Spanish-style guitar music on the CD make the place feel very cozy and welcoming. But it's not a fancy restaurant - don't go expecting a lavish 5 Star Hotel experience.
It being Christmas Eve, I took advantage of the daily special and had roasted turkey with pureed pumpkin. My date had kebap. Both meals were delicious, but truth be told, the kebap was better. It was like thinly-sliced strips of charbroiled steak. I highly recommend it.
There are dozens of other bars and restaurants in that same area, within a stone's throw of the mosque. You'll want to take your time and at least stroll past them all, because the cobblestone walkways and the views of the Bosphorus are truly beautiful.
My date and I stopped at Mado, the famous chain with the ice cream that never disappoints. Upstairs, above the plentiful ground-level indoor and outdoor seating, is a small, quiet room with nice views. Above it is an even tinier loft that seats six people, and even then only if they're very friendly with each other.
Down the street, walking south along the waterfront toward Beşiktaş, is the Kabatas Lisesi. Now, I don't know which students get to go to school there, but they sure are lucky. The place is gorgeous, with numerous gardens and elegant old buildings. On the north end of the grounds, next to a cultural foundation building, is yet another great tea garden with yet another incredible view of the water.
It's easy to get to Ortaköy. A ferry will take you right there. Or, if your ferry doesn't go to Ortaköy, take one to Beşiktaş, then walk north along the shoreline road for about 15 minutes, and you'll be in Ortaköy. To take a dolmuş from the Asian side, find one that goes to Taksim or Şişli. As soon as it crosses the bridge and exits the freeway, get off the dolmuş, hail a taxi, and tell the driver "Ortaköy Iskele". The cab will cost you TL 5 million or less.