Izmir (The Beautiful), the ancient city of Smyrna, "the country of the sacred
mother being the third largest city of Turkey with a population of three million,
lies at the geographical and commercial center of Aegean region. This is one of
Turkey's most enjoyable cities with its streets shaded by palm trees, the striking
walkways and the graceful houses. The fiery summer sun is cooled by winds, Imbat
blowing from the sea.
At the beginning of the 20th century Izmir was a center of commerce and entertainment
rivaling Istanbul and was famous for its raisins and seedless grapes, almonds,
horse drawn carriages, spring festival, Alt覺n Damla (gold drop) eau de
cologne and Nargile (water-pipes).
All types of cottons and textiles, together with agricultural produce such
as tobacco, grapes, figs, olives and olive oil are exported from Izmir port
to all over of the world. Today the city keeps its importance as the largest
export harbor in Turkey.
Modern Izmir also has its gems. The speed of life in Izmir, in keeping with
its pleasant climate, is relaxed. Even taxi drivers are several degrees more
relaxed and than their Istanbul brothers and driving is relatively civilized.
Window shopping in some of the smarter areas is the proof to the fashion consciousness
of the city's inhabitants, whose finery is continuously on display, whether
on a morning jog along the airy seafront, or promenading through the many cafe
lined pedestrian areas under floodlit gigantic palm trees. Therefore it really
deserves to be called Beautiful Izmir.
Izmir has also a rich nightlife. It has all one would expect of a modern city:
high-quality night-clubs and discos, excellent eateries (from the waterfront
Meyhane along the northern part of Birinci Kordon (First Cordon)
to the top class restaurants in the streets at the rear) Sampling the mild air
on a night-time tour by horse-drawn carriage is a relaxing way to end the day.
Its modest tourist demand has left Izmir relatively free of the problems created
elsewhere in the region by the large flood of sun-seekers. Izmir is within striking
distance of all the ancient sites and resorts of the central Aegean. Even so,
given the attractions of sun, sea and sand, it is unlikely that you will exercise
Izmir as a base for very long, though it makes a good stop-over if you are arriving
by ferry, heading along the coast or planning an excursion inland to the old
cities such as Ephesus or Sardis and its neighboring mountain villages. In contrast
to the rich history of its surroundings and the fact that Homer lived here,
it is a surprisingly poor as a historical place.
Izmir's fiery destruction during the Independence War in 1922 effectively
severed the city's links with it's past. However modern city is a convenient
place in which to live and is real a city in the sense that it is not primarily
a tourist town. Consequently, Izmir is worth a look.
Those few extant relics of the former Izmir are still worth visiting and the
best place to start is Kadifekale (Velvet Castle). Alexander the Great
chose this outcrop as the center of his city and there is no better place from
which to get a general sense of modern Izmir-virtually the whole of that can
be viewed from this site. The remains of the castle amount to some fairly well
preserved walls and around them are tea gardens and restaurants as a reward
of steep climb.(although you don't have to do it on foot).
Other sites worth a brief visit are the Roman Agora, visible to the northeast
from Kadifekale, and its slightly more modern equivalent, the Bazaar. Take
time to explore the streets just above the Agora as these still have some of
the few surviving Greek houses in Izmir.
The principal attraction of the Bazaar is being a window on Turkish life. In
contrast to Istanbul's famous Kapal覺蓷r覺 (Covered Bazaar), which is
much more greater and faster-paced than Izmir's the bargaining is just as likely
to be over spades, hoes and butter churns as leather products and jewelry. There
are some delightful mosques, cafes and workshops hidden within the vine shaded
lanes of the bazaar letting you feel in oasis.
The artifacts unearthed in the excavations in the environs of Izmir were taken
to the Archeological Museum of Izmir, which is the oldest museum in the Aegean
region. This museum has now moved to its new premises at Konak, a district within
襤zmir. This museum must be seen for a proper understanding of ancient Aegean
civilizations.
By
Babacool 31.10.2003
