Safranbolu

Photo: Bülent Yüksel

The known history of Safranbolu dates back as far as 3000 BC. It has hosted many civilizations, including the Roman, Byzantine Seljuk and Ottoman Empires, throughout its history. It is seldom visited by foreign tourists, however the delightful houses of old Safranbolu are the finest examples of Ottoman domestic architecture and the town is an open museum.

The city originally took its name from the saffron fields that dotted the area in the 19th century. The powder obtained from its flower is used as a very strong dye. Used in very small quantities, saffron adds a delicate flavor, distinct aroma and a very unique color to desserts and other foods. Today, saffron fields abound in a village 20 km away, where a thriving saffron business continues.

The city was built in a valley and the historical works are mostly from the Candaro?ullary and Ottoman eras. When you look down the valley from Hidirlik hill, the panorama of the city will surely fascinate you: the castle, clock tower, old houses, konaks (mansions), inns and hamams spread out before you as one. The downtown area has been tastefully restored and takes you on a journey into the past. There are more than 25 historical mosques in town. KöprülüMehmet Pasha and Izzet Mehmet Pasha mosques among the most famous. Kaymakamlar Evi Museum reflects the finest characteristics of Safranbolu houses. The Ottoman clock tower was built in 1797 and still functions. When restoration is completed, the Cinci Han will rank among the best 5-star hotels. It was built in the mid 17th century to meet the needs of merchants, since the town served as an important junction on the route of the famous Silk Road.

Many of the historical konaks and houses of Safranbolu have been restored and are in service with domestic designs to provide accommodation. The most famous are Havuzlu Asmazlar Konagi, Mehves Hanim Konagi, Hatice Hanim Konagi, Gülevi, and Havuzlu Konak (run by Turing). Each one is more beautiful than the next with their high ceilings, large rooms, and windows decorated with embroidered curtains and brass beds. Safran is the most famous restaurant in Safranbolu.

The busy market square forms a focal point around which the rest of the town is spread out. Walk down through the narrow pedestrian-only streets taking in all the little shops and the famous houses. Be sure not to miss Manifaturacilar street, Arasta (old bazaar) at which the houses are restored by the Ministry of Culture, and Hükümet street where you can watch craftsmen at work and bargain with them for their goods. Yemeniciler Arasta resembles a green tent covered in wine leaves. You are immediately grasped by the café where women prepare several kinds of gözleme. The small and cozy stores side by side along the street sell handmade Yemeni (slippers), cloth, curtains, embroidered blouses and bags. A vaulted door leads you into Bakircilar Çarsisi (Coppersmith Bazaar), where you can purchase some old and new copper goods while watching the craftsmen work.

In addition to its history and houses, Safranbolu's nature is also beautiful. The natural beauties to be found include forests, pastures, canyons and caverns. Different altitudes create variety in climate and plants while making the place perfect for nature sports such as jogging, trekking and biking. Dense forests and heights allow for the formation of pastures. Local geological formations created deep and long canyons and caverns that are several kilometers long.

Also of interest are the Incekara aqueduct and canyon, Bulak and Hizar caves, rock tombs near Hacilarobasi and Üçbölük villages, Düzce and Tokatli canyons, Sariçiçek plateau and the Uluyayla and Gürleyik picnic areas. Also unique in Safranbolu are the famous Çavus grapes with their extremely thin skin and sweet flavor. The lokum (Turkish Delight) is also a special treat, preferred among lokum connoisseurs and a must to sample.

Don't leave Safranbolu before:
- Taking photos at Hidirlik Hill,
- Visiting Yörük Köyüand Incekara aqueducts, and
- Eating gözleme and lokum.

Yörük Köyü
13 km away from Safranbolu, this museum-like village can only be reached by car or taxi. The village is under protection and the houses and konaks (mansions) are all well preserved. The village was founded byan O?uz Turk tribe, and its oldest wooden house is 450 years old while itsnewest one is still 90 years old. The houses' inner decorations and ceiling embellishments are as stunning as their façades. The deer horns hanging from the eaves are considered lucky. The Kaymakçioglu and Sipahiler mansions, Ahsap Cami (Wooden Mosque) and the Çamasirhane (Laundry), restored as an art gallery, are among the sites of interest. You may have difficulty in choosing what to eat among the delicious varieties of gözleme and baklava. Don't forget to purchase the local food exhibited at the exit of the village. The nearest place for accommodation is the restored mansions in Safranbolu.

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